10 Essential Woodworking Tools To Start Your Shop
No particular order
Chisels (sharp ones)
Tools every woodworker needs
Like most any list on the internet, this is based on my experiences and is just my opinion. I have seen some amazing woodworkers that can build things I couldn’t dream of using only hand tools. So you don’t have to own every item on this list just to start making cutting boards to sell at the local farmers market. However, if you want to make a variety of projects, and not have to spend hours creating a jig to do the job of a fairly common tool, then this list is a good place to start.
This is also going to assume you have some basic home improvement tools already. Things like a tape measure, cordless drill, level, hammer, etc. This list is that next jump towards being a more serious woodworker. A woodworker that might want to start generating income. And don’t think you need all of these tools at once. Like most people, I built my collection slowly over the course of several years. And it’s still growing!
Good vs Best tool
I will go through each tool and explain why I can’t live without that particular tool. I will then give a couple options I recommend buying. A totally decent, reasonably priced option. In addition to a “best” option. I will also give my recommendation as to if I feel it is best to purchase that tool new, or save some money and purchase it second hand if possible.
I always try and be as transparent as possible with everything I do. So you should know none of the tools below are sponsored in any way. They are all tools that I believe are the best for the job. Or at least the best value. That said… I did include affiliate links to any item that I could. Which means, if you click a link below and purchase an item I will get a small percentage of the sale. Which might not sound like a lot, but some months it can make a real difference. So if you feel like supporting my page, I really appreciate you clicking through one of my links.
need one on one help with your shop or project? Consider a personal consultation
Table saw
In my opinion this is where it all starts. Everyone should own a table saw, no matter how small the shop. Sure you could use a miter saw/circular saw combo and accomplish most every task you’d use a table saw for. But the versatility, speed, array of jigs, and accuracy of a table saw make it as my number one tool.
If you google “Table saw jigs” you will get an endless list of jigs that can make your life easier. Jigs that can even replace many of the tools on this list. You can turn your table saw into a jointer, cut perfect 45 degree miters (even a miter saw can’t do that), make a crosscut jig that can essentially replace your miter saw, and I have even seen guys turn round bowls on a table saw. No lathe needed! In addition to the jigs, a table saw also doubles as a medium sized work bench. Adding an outfeed table creates an excellent workstation that is totally functional. Don’t be afraid to buy a used table saw if you are at all handy. There isn’t much that can’t be fixed/adjusted so long as the motor works.
Good option
I owned a ridgid contractor saw for several years and was very happy with it for the most part. It had totally decent power, an acceptable fence, and only cost around $500 new (edit* up to $750 now!). I was able to find mine on Craigslist for $250 though. If I were just starting out I wouldn’t think twice about buying this saw again.
Best option
As long as we aren’t including $20k giant sliding cabinet saws, this one isn’t even debatable. Sawstop is the answer. End of discussion. Removing the safety feature, Sawstop would still likely be the best saw to purchase when compared to the competition. Then include the fact that it is a table saw that can’t cut you… The competition is over. I own a 3hp PCS and cut 2.5” white oak with a full kerf blade and no burning. So it has plenty of power. There is a 5hp version available if you want a little extra though. I haven’t tried the 110v 1.75hp model, but I’m sure its good enough if you don’t have access to 220 power.
Maybe my favorite feature of the Sawstop is that everything is adjustable. So if some part of it is wacked out of tune, you can make it right again. I purchased my 52” 3hp PCS used for $1500 on Craigslist ($3000 new). While I got a good deal on the saw, it was beat up pretty bad. After about $150 in replacement parts and probably a days worth of work, I had a brand new saw that runs like a top three years later. ridgid contractor saw
Bandsaw
While not the most critical tool in the shop, I find the bandsaw to be the most fun tool in my shop. Cutting thin veneers, bookmatches, or complex curves is really only possible on a bandsaw. While any tool needs to be respected, it doesn’t summon the fear of table saw kickbacks, or miter saw accidents. You can break down 4” thick chunk of wood in a matter of seconds without having to worry about a piece flying up and taking an eye out. Just like a table saw, not much on a good bandsaw that can’t be adjusted. So don’t hesitate to buy used.
Good option
The old generation Jet bandsaws are a dime a dozen on Craigslist where I live. That was my first bandsaw and it worked alright for me. Low on power, accuracy, and looks. But it got the job done and only set me back about $300. If you plan on keeping it for a few years, get yourself a good carbide blade to maximize the power and accuracy.
Best option
I will limit this to the best 14” bandsaw option to keep it in the small shop realm. Don’t get me wrong, I’d love to have an Italian built 18” Laguna for $5000. Or better yet, a 2500 pound 20hp 36” bandsaw like you see in some production shops! For now, neither of those are realistic though. I own the 14” Laguna BX and really like it. It is a step up from the very popular Laguna 14/12. I would be perfectly happy with the 14/12, so don’t hesitate buying one if you’re considering it. I will say the extra HP and foot brake on the BX are quite nice. I can’t tell you how many times I got myself in a jam and couldn’t take my hands off my piece to turn the machine off. And was so thankful I had the foot brake/kill switch to stop the blade in less than a second.
I have personally tested the 14” models of Powermatic, Jet (new model), Laguna, Rikon, and Grizzly. I would absolutely only consider owning the Laguna. However, I haven’t tested many of the larger models. I understand most of those brands make pretty nice machines 17” and up.
Orbital sander
Following the super sexy tools like a table saw and a bandsaw you might be surprised to see a simple orbital sander. Don’t underestimate the orbital though. I would probably rank this as my second overall most important tool. The downside of an orbital is that it can really only do one thing, sand. Where table saws, planers, and bandsaws can do a variety of tasks to replace other tools in the shop. I still believe an orbital sander is invaluable, and not a prohibitive cost to get into. Don’t risk buying sanders second hand. Too many variables and things that can break on them. For any orbital, buy new.
Good option
I have owned a lot of Bosch tools over the years. If you ever aren’t sure which brand you should get, you can almost always trust that any Bosch tool will be excellent quality. From miter saws, routers, sanders, and jig saws, Bosch might not always be the absolute best in particular area, but it will be a quality tool that will last a long time. That said, I recommend getting a 5” Bosch orbital sander if you are on a budget.
Best option
When first learned about Festool I thought it was a joke. I specifically remember laughing out loud when I saw their orbital sander cost $500. I couldn’t imagine spending that money when my Bosch seemed totally fine. Then I used the brushless 150mm (6”). You really have to use one to believe it. It’s like getting in a Ferrari after enjoying your commute in a Camry. It is that good. It starts and stops basically instantly, you barely feel it vibrate in your hand, the pattern is absolutely amazing, and if you do any epoxy work, you need this sander today.
jointer
While the jointer is not my personal favorite, I know a lot of woodworkers who would put the jointer at the top of their list. A critical tool for anyone who wants to do more traditional projects that require dimensional lumber for perfectly square glue ups. Many people assume a planer can do the job of a jointer, however if you put a curved board through a planer, you end up with a thinner curved board most of the time. Some will say to buy a jointer before a planer, however I say buy a planer first and make a jointing jig for it. If you are shopping any stand up jointer 6” or larger, don’t be afraid to shop used. However, some used jointer beds can be a project to get set up just right.
Good option
I started out with a benchtop jointer, and it was ok. But I wouldn’t recommend it here. I would invest in a 6” Jet jointer to begin with. Well built, not too hard to move around a small shop, and readily available second hand for $300-500.
Best option
You can spend some big dollars on a jointer. So while I’d love a 12” helical Powermatic, $7000 on one tool isn’t realistic for most of us. So I will say to get the best 6 or 8” spiral/helical jointer you can afford. The spiral heads save an incredible amount of time during blade changes, offer increased cutting capacity, and longer blade life than HSS straight blades. The 8” grizzly parallelogram jointer is about the best entry level jointer (borderline professional) you can get. You won’t find a better jointer for under $2000. If you’re curious, I have a second hand Shop Fox 8” helical head jointer with dovetail style beds. Not my dream jointer, but probably won’t get rid of it for anything short of a 12” helical.
planer
A planer is a shop necessity in my opinion. Unlike a jointer, I feel that you can get by with a benchtop model if space and/or money is an issue. You might be surprised how much wood you can move with a little lunchbox planer, but it is nothing compared to a free standing model. Whether you are shopping big or small, don’t be afraid to shop used. Just be prepared to throw out the blades on the machine you buy. Nobody has ever sold a planer with sharp blades.
Good option
I’d start with a Ridgid 13” planer if you are on a budget. Decent power and accuracy, and not too hard to find second hand. The consensus best of the lunchbox options would be the Dewalt 735 planer though. If you have more money than space, don’t hesitate to drop the $600 on it. However I generally see them closer to $350 on the second hand market if you can shop around.
Best option
Bigger the better. And for gods sake get a helical if you can afford it. 15 or 20” Grizzly is a great entry level machine. I have the 5hp helical 20” grizzly. While the finish is a little “chattery” due to the helical head, it sands out very fast. A friend of mine has an aftermarket helical head he spent $6000 on for his vintage Powermatic that he claims give a glass smooth finish, straight from the planer. So again, its a matter of getting the best you can afford.
dust collector
Don’t you dare skip to the next tool. I know, dust collection is boring. We want tools that make sawdust, not pick it up. But bite the bullet early and get yourself some real dust collection. Health is the obvious priority. But don’t forget about the increased productivity that happens in a clean shop. Not to mention increased sanity. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a second hand dust collector, but good ones rarely get sold. So shop new or used confidently.
Good option
Instead of getting an old cloth bag dust collector off Craiglist, get yourself a good cyclone separator and hook it to a shop vac or old dust collector motor. Those bags are awful for your lungs, and the cyclone separators are pretty cheap. Oneida Air Systems makes a wide variety of systems for just about any size shop or budget.
Best option
HEPA is the name of the game. If it’s not a HEPA system, its not really a dust collection system as far as your lungs are concerned. There are a lot of good HEPA options out there, but the industry standard is Oneida Air Sytems. All they do is dust collection. And they do it better than anyone. I just got the 5hp Dust Gorilla. Which is a full blown professional system. Probably overkill for my sized shop. But I wanted a system I could grow into, and not end up replacing in a few years. For a smaller shop, I’d take a long look at their Super Cell. Its HEPA certified, and unlike my giant gorilla system, can take hoses as small as 1”. So you can hook it to tools like routers and sanders. Replacing the need for additional HEPA vacuums.
miter saw
Just about every small shop has a miter saw. While I think they are useful, they are far from my favorite tool. First, they lack accuracy. I mean true accuracy. Try cutting picture frame 45’s with even a high end miter saw and see what I mean when you put them all together. Being off 1/10th of a degree adds up quick with that many cuts. Second, they are a dust collection nightmare for all but the Festool Kapex. Finally, they are super dangerous. I have scared myself too many times to count with my sliding miter saw.
So why is the miter saw on this list? They are affordable, portable, and fast. Great for cutting long 2x4’s, 3.5” hardwood chunks, and even non ferrous metals like copper pipe (be careful though). Most premium brand miter saws will outlast you, so I wouldn’t be too worried about shopping used.
Good option
I had a Ryobi miter saw for years. It wasn’t too accurate or smooth, but it never broke. So if you want a good value, I think Ryobi is a totally viable option. A step up from the Ryobi would be the Dewalt, Makita, and Bosch. Any of which I’d be happy with. I recommend getting a 10” vs a 12” though. That way you can interchange blades with your 10” table saw.
Best option
Festool does just about everything better. While I don’t own the Festool miter saw (Kapex). I wish I did. But not so much that I have bought one yet. The dust collection is amazing, accuracy is as good as it gets with a miter saw, and the fit and finish blow any of the other brands out of the water.
router
The router should be way up on your list. While a little intimidating when you first start, it isn’t a hard tool to get the hang of. Just leave the gloves off, and put the glasses on. 20,000 RPM can throw a lot of debris around, and can suck a glove right in. So it isn’t a tool to take lightly. A router isn’t just for rounding table edges. Although it is great for that. You can cut inlays, flatten tables with a router sled, cut sliding dovetails or dados, in addition to an endless list of other jobs. Routers can be a little more sensitive to breaking, so I always buy new.
Good option
I own four or five routers. And honestly, I haven’t found the perfect router yet. My first one was the Bosch 2.25hp with a plunge and fixed base. Which surprisingly is still the one I recommend the most. It plunges smooth, can comfortably free hand with it, has decent power, and mine has lasted about five years or so of heavy use. It currently resides in my router table. I have had some friends that had the same router and had the on/off switch go out on them for what it’s worth. But I wouldn’t hesitate to buy this one again.
Best option
Of all my “best options” this one I am the least passionate about. I have the Festool 1400, and it is a very very nice router for many tasks. Plunges silky smooth, amazing dust collection, and precise adjustments. The only real complaint is part of its greatest strength. The dust is funneled right into the center of the bit, which makes it perfect for extracting when hooked up to a vac. The downside is that it completely obstructs the view of what you are working on. So free hand routing is essentially out of the question. If you don’t do any free hand work for inlays or bow tie joints, then no worries. Buy it and don’t look back. However, if you do some free hand work, make this one your second router.
Circular saw
Every adult should own a circular saw of some kind. Or at least be able to borrow one. No tool can cleanly break down a sheet of plywood, cut a slab to size, or cut random odd shapes. Ok, maybe a jigsaw. But a circular saw does it much better. Like other small tools, I prefer to shop new. Although, I have never had a circular saw break on me, so probably fine to shop used if you want. In fact, I used my dads old craftsman for years. No telling how long he had it before me. You know what, I changed my mind. Go ahead and buy used.
Good option
I generally prefer corded tools to cordless. Sounds backwards, but the corded tools have a lot more power. Although the battery game will probably catch up eventually. I have a 7.25” Milwaukee and don’t have any complaints. Although you are probably safe with any of your favorite premium brand circular saw (Bosch, Dewalt, Ridgid, Makita).
Best option
The Festool track saw is on a lot of woodworkers bucket lists. And for good reason. Just set the track where you want to cut, and slide the saw on the track for a dummy proof cut. You can even cut lines so sharp you can go straight to glue up right from the saw. Add in the dust collection, and you have a indispensable tool. BUT… it’s not a perfect tool. It is pretty under powered. Capable of cutting just short of 3”, that will take you around four or five shallow passes to do so. At least in hardwood. Also, the dust collection is just average. I feel they are so close to the perfect tool, maybe a 1” bigger blade, a lot more motor, and I’d be fine with the average dust extraction. Festool, go to work.
Chisels
I bet you thought I was going to leave the hand tools off this list, didn’t you? Chisels are almost a tool for the prerequisite list of tools everyone should own. So I will take it a step further here. You need really sharp chisels, not necessarily expensive chisels. I have chisels that cost $5 each and some that cost $100 each. Properly sharpened they both will get the job done for 99% percent of the people reading this. Some Japanese chisels can get a little sharper than western style, but that is a negligible difference for most everyone, including me. A higher quality western chisel edge will last a lot longer than an edge on a Home Depot chisel though. If you have time to frequently sharpen/hone, you can do everything with a Dewalt construction chisel if you really want.
One advantage to buying used is that with any luck, a good woodworker has already flattened your chisel backs for you. The downside is that quality older chisels tend to appreciate in value. Personally, I’d prefer to have a new chisel that I know hasn’t had the temper ruined by some kid on a bench grinder 20 years ago. That said, if you really want a vintage Stanley collection, get yourself a vintage Stanley collection.
Good option
I won’t make this a blog about sharpening, but I’ll touch on a few points to make purchasing easier. The first thing you need to do to any chisel (cheap or expensive) is flatten the back. A big difference from some cheaper chisels to more expensive ones is how flat the back comes from the factory. Narex makes a really decent chisel for a really decent price. I have found the backs to need a bit more work than a higher end chisel though. Additionally, with the ones I’ve purchased, about 1/5 required A LOT more work. While most weren’t great to start. Once flattened and sharpened, they preform as well as any chisel in my drawer though.
Best option
There are a lot of great options out there, but I love my Blue Spruce chisels. They are one of the few chisels that let you customize the look and feel. You get to choose the handle material and shape for every chisel you buy. I am rather particular about my handles, so this is a huge feature for me. Also, how cool is a full set of curly maple or cocobolo custom chisels.
what did i miss?
Of course there are more tools that could/should be on this list. Let me know in the comments what tools you think should have made the list.
Honorable mention